The Specs for Techs

Think Super Speeds are confusing? Let's talk Techs...

Introduced in 1938, the Tech is a simple three-piece razor consisting of a handle, base plate, and cap. Should be easy, right? Well...

Is the cap plain, etched, or embossed with Gillette's logo? Brass, steel, Zamak, or aluminum? Heavy handle, ball-end, fluted, or Bakelite? Standard length or short "Travel" size? Gold or nickel? Pre-war triangular drain holes or post-war oblong holes? English, US, French, Argentinian, German? Date code or no?

Many of the differences are simple to spot. The pre-war, for instance, had triangular holes in the base plate to aid in rinsing, and usually had a heavy ("fat") handle.

Civilian production was curtailed during World War II, and many variations of military models were produced. The 1945 Tech had a fluted, black-painted handle with a steel cap. Base plates could be nickel or black.

Here's the same Contract model (1946?), but in gold (next to an Old Type)...

A GI "Simplex" with Bakelite handle and base plate, steel cap, and carbon steel blades. It was issued in a snap-closure plastic case. (While not technically a Tech, it's the same three-piece design. Gillette manufactured a similar razor.)

After the war, civilian production was resumed. The Tech came with both a slim ball-end handle...

...and a Heavy handle (the "Gold Tech") like the pre-war...

Early Techs had no "Gillette" logo on the cap. An acid-etched logo appeared shortly after the war and was used to the early '60s. The oblong post-war holes can be seen here, too.

The embossed logo appeared around '63 or '64, and the material was changed from brass to Zamak (a zinc alloy). The cap also featured beveled, or "faceted" edges.

Tech production ceased in 1979. Pity, too, as this was a fabulous razor.

Note: Since these razors pretty much use similar parts, especially the interchangeability of the handles, parts can be easily swapped out to create what's known as "frankenrazors". I've seen black-handled Contracts with the gold-plated cap and base plate, and Heavy handles used on Old types. I recently bought a post-war ball-end in a clam-shell hard case, knowing they usually came in a cardboard box with a cellophane "window", but I wanted that case as well.
  

Super Speed 101

The Gillette Super Speed is probably the best-known of all the double-edge razors...quite possibly the best-known of any and all razors. Introduced in 1947, the Super Speed brought ease and convenience of shaving to millions of men (and, with the Lady Gillette, women) around the world. But there are many variations of this venerable face-scraper: '40s style, flare-tip, black-handled, colored-tip, even slight variations of the flare-tip handle. Here's a little primer on the differences, and what to look for (and beware of).

The 1941 Ranger Tech could, in my opinion, be considered the grandfather of the first Super Speed. It's most readily identified by the smooth band above the twist-to-open knob, where the patent date is printed, and the absence of end caps...

Odd brass head/nickel handle combination

...which were added to the father of the Super Speed, the 1946 Ranger Tech.

(Note: The patent info was removed from the smooth band and placed inside on the base plate in 1946, further aiding in proper identification.)

These two Ranger models are basically identical to the Super Speed released in 1947, but there is one more sure-fire identifier: in 1947, the base plate was creased at the oblong drain holes. As you can see on this Ranger head, there are no creases (circled areas):

The crease in the '47 base plate...

Also, in 1947, there *may* be a flat "shoulder" between the handle and the neck, unsure if that's true with ALL 1947s, and the elimination of the smooth band above the TTO knob...

(Gold-plated versions of the Super Speed were known as "Milord", and were produced in 1940 and 1946-53. Be wary of Super Speeds being offered as "rare 1946-47". The base plate is the key. And '47 models with the end caps removed being passed off as '41 Rangers. Look for that smooth band. Gillette had a habit of mixing old parts with new models to save money, so look for those hybrids, too.)

The center bar for the Rangers and '47 SS, over which the blade is loaded, was squared at each end with two protruding "ears" that helped keep the blade in place. In 1948, Gillette "notched" the center bar to introduce their new blade dispenser, touting a "hands off" approach to blade-loading, and the "ears" removed. Not only did they claim this was safer, but it sped up the loading process. The "notched" center bar can be seen here on this 1951 aluminum-handled black-tip...

...which also came in a steel-handled version (brass was in short supply due to World War II, and the Korean conflict was just beginning; brass was needed for shell casings). The smooth band at the top of the handle identifies the handle's material; the steel-handle is knurled all the way to the neck.

 1951 steel-handle black-tip, 1957 blue-tip

Wait a minute...what's that with the blue tip? Why, that's the blue-tip flare-tip! More on those later.

Up to this point, Gillette didn't identify Super Speeds with date codes; a letter (for the year) and 1-4 (designating the quarter of that year) began in the third quarter of 1950 ("V3", fairly rare). Also, in 1950, Gillette changed the wording stamped inside the base plate, under the center bar, from "PAT NOS ON PACKAGE" to "PAT NOS ON PKG". And the only difference between the 1948 and 1949 SS was the case. A red bottom/clear top styrene case replaced the simple cardboard box in 1949. The razors themselves are identical. (Note: The correct razor dispenser was a cream-colored plastic case.)

(Note: There are two variations of the "V" test code. One with the stampings right-side up, and one with the stamping upside-down. Why? Who knows?)

1950 V3

In 1954, the '40s style was replaced with the flare tip; however, the Z3 and Z4 models were special edition "TV Specials" (also released as a flare-tip in 1958). The flare-tip is just that:

The TTO knob was flared, evidently to give the user a better grip. And the flare-tips had their variants as well (notice the handle differences)...

1956, 1961, and 1973 Super Speeds

1958 "TV Special"

1956 red-tip

 Now, about those colored tips. Gillette produced three levels of aggressive Super Speeds: a black-tip '40s style (1951-52, and the only SS with a plastic TTO knob) with an average level of aggression, a blue flare-tip with a mild level (in single-ring and a twin-ring knob versions), and a red-tip with an aggressive level (both produced between 1955-60). There are also European versions of the Super Speeds known as "Rockets".

 HD500 "Rocket", made in England

Finally, in 1966, Gillette made its final change with the handle becoming a black resin-covered aluminum (two variations are known, knurled and waffle patterns)... 

...with production ending in 1988, and the introduction of cartridge-based razors, sounding what many thought was the death knell for double-edge razors.

But they are still very alive and well.

Adjustable razors

Adjustable razors have the ability of adjusting the blade exposure ("gap") to give a varying degree of mildness and/or aggressiveness by turning a numbered dial, located on the handle below the razor's head, or, in the case of injector razors, on the head itself.

  PAL adjustable razor

 Schick adjustable razor

Gillette adjustable DE razors

The "Fatboy", officially called the "195" (because they cost $1.95 when they came out in 1958) is so named for its chunky "fat" handle, and had a slightly higher-domed head than other twist-to-open razors. Gold-plated versions were called "Executive" models. Production ended in 1961 and was replaced with the slimmer "Slim" adjustable later that year. The gold-plated "Slim" was called "Aristocrat" (not to be confused with the earlier non-adjustable models). The "Slim", in turned was replaced in 1968 by the black-handled "Super-84 Adjustable", which had a short (84mm) handle; the "Super-109" had a 109.5mm handle. The "Super" model also came in a gold-plated version (from what I could find, date code O4 only?). The brass base plate was replaced in 1977 with a black plastic one. Production ended in 1988.

Some of the rarer adjustable razors...the infamous and elusive Bottom-dial Fatboy...

(image courtesy mr-razor.com)

Another highly-sought razor is the Gillette "Toggle", so named for its unique method of opening the silo doors...

 1960 (F4) red-dot "Toggle"

Flipping the lever loosens the doors just enough to aid in rinsing during shaving. Flipping it to the full position opens the doors for blade insertion/removal. The "Toggle" had a limited production run in 1957-58, and full production for Christmas, 1960. They all had the same 9-position adjustment dial as the other Gillettes. Most were gold-plated; however, there were some nickel-plated versions as well. A rarer still variation of the "Toggle", the 5-position 1956, was serial numbered, as opposed to having a date code...

  Not an inexpensive razor (image: mr-razor.com)

I personally used a 1965 "Slim" for about 6 years (along with an assortment of various disposables and women's cartridge razors), set on "3" and using whatever blades I could get at HEB's. I had an old brush (with probably half the bristles missing) and a puck of whatever soap I could get (again, at HEB's) in a vintage Homer Laughlin coffee mug. When I stopped seeing shaving as a chore, and more as a way to unwind & relax, I started using a wider variety of blades. Adjustables have the advantage of being able to adapt to the blade that's loaded in it. Also, they can adjust to areas of the face that benefit from a more aggressive (or milder) setting. I use a fairly mild setting on the flat surfaces, such as my cheeks, then crank it up on the more difficult areas, such as my throat (my whiskers grow in a sideways direction; such is the importance of "mapping" your face).