There are simple mistakes in sellers' listings that can be to your benefit (or detriment, if you're not wise to them), such as the last Super Speed I bought that the seller didn't list as a V3 (although it was plainly evident in the photos). Or the "rare '46 Super Speed!" that was in fact a hybrid (a '46 Ranger Tech head on a SS handle). Or the "no notch, no date code" SS that was in fact a '41 Ranger Tech. On the other hand, I've been fooled by the image itself, like the L3 Slim I thought was an Aristocrat (the lighting made it look gold; the auction was ending soon so I bit the bullet...good thing I didn't pay an Aristocrat's price for it).
But what I've been seeing lately is just plain stupid. Like the cased Aristocrat (marked on the inside of the lid as such) listed as a Fat Boy. Uh, the included directions say "Aristocrat Model" plain as day, dude! Even some Heavy Techs are being listed as Fat Boys. Stop it already! And a post-war ball-end Tech listed as 1931 because of the B4 date code (uh, the *blade* would have been 1931; razors began standard date codes in 1951, so the B4 would be *1956*). The black-handled Super Speed is not only *not adjustable* it did *not* come in the TV Special case.
Sellers: If you have no idea what you have, spend five minutes on the internet and *find out*. If you feel like you don't have time, you shouldn't be selling. You're making yourself not only look stupid, you could be selling something that's worth a lot more than what you're getting. If you *do* know what you have, but think you're relying on the buyer being stupid, then you're just being a cheat. You can keep your blue-tip (that never came in an "ostrich" skin case). $249?
*smfh* </ rant >
Sunday, November 5, 2017
Monday, October 9, 2017
Define "Best"
I just picked up (but haven't received yet) an old German open-comb four-piece travel razor. It looked interesting (it was listed as a "Gillette Tuckaway", which I knew it wasn't), and I had a $5 off coupon. It was grungy, but all the teeth were straight, and was in a nickel case. Looked like a good candidate for a revamp. Had a maker's mark of "P" over "F" (or vice-versa), and "Made in Germany" stamped on it. So, I started doing a little research on just what this thing could be. (So far, I've found nothing at this point.)
During my research, I stumbled across numerous websites touting "the best (insert random number here) razors for beginners" and such. I took time to read through some, knowing full well that "best" is totally subjective. Some of the information just misleading, some was flat wrong, some read like ads. And most are concerned only with new production razors, not vintage. But I'm not here to judge individuals or their sites. I'm here to tell you to find what "best" means to *you*, as a collector (and user) of vintage razors.
So...you've spent some time (and a lot of money) building a collection of vintage razors. You've also acquired many different blades, some brushes, and soaps/creams. Now is the time to put them to use and find out what to put on display or, in my case, pass on to a child (and/or grandchild). After nearly two years of collecting, I'm *still* in that testing phase, but have found a few that are definitely keepers (until I croak and my son gets them). There were some that I knew right away they would go away, and some that will stay. There were some that I wanted so bad to work for me, but didn't. So, they left. Like my E2 Schick injector. It's a tad aggressive, and doesn't give me as close and comfortable shave as the Schick adjustable with a twin blade. And all of my Milords...beautiful, near mint, they just don't perform to my satisfaction. My '41 Ranger Tech? It'll have to be pried from my cold, dead hand. The last V3 Super Speed I got is still trying out different blades, and I'm hoping it'll be a keeper. I'll hang on to the toggle just 'cuz it's a toggle. Out of the nearly 80 razors I've acquired, I'm down to 13, but I'll be culling out a few more before my next trip south.
I'm really hoping this old German razor will find a place in my rack.
During my research, I stumbled across numerous websites touting "the best (insert random number here) razors for beginners" and such. I took time to read through some, knowing full well that "best" is totally subjective. Some of the information just misleading, some was flat wrong, some read like ads. And most are concerned only with new production razors, not vintage. But I'm not here to judge individuals or their sites. I'm here to tell you to find what "best" means to *you*, as a collector (and user) of vintage razors.
So...you've spent some time (and a lot of money) building a collection of vintage razors. You've also acquired many different blades, some brushes, and soaps/creams. Now is the time to put them to use and find out what to put on display or, in my case, pass on to a child (and/or grandchild). After nearly two years of collecting, I'm *still* in that testing phase, but have found a few that are definitely keepers (until I croak and my son gets them). There were some that I knew right away they would go away, and some that will stay. There were some that I wanted so bad to work for me, but didn't. So, they left. Like my E2 Schick injector. It's a tad aggressive, and doesn't give me as close and comfortable shave as the Schick adjustable with a twin blade. And all of my Milords...beautiful, near mint, they just don't perform to my satisfaction. My '41 Ranger Tech? It'll have to be pried from my cold, dead hand. The last V3 Super Speed I got is still trying out different blades, and I'm hoping it'll be a keeper. I'll hang on to the toggle just 'cuz it's a toggle. Out of the nearly 80 razors I've acquired, I'm down to 13, but I'll be culling out a few more before my next trip south.
I'm really hoping this old German razor will find a place in my rack.
Saturday, July 22, 2017
Razors with teeth
When I first saw an open comb razor, it intimidated me. "No way I'll use one of those," I told myself. I pictured my face being shredded into a bloody mess.
Careful observation is needed when buying these old razors online, as some of these cracks are so slight as to be barely perceptible (watch for statements like "No cracks that I can see!") and will not show up well when photographed (also be careful if you see that only one side is being shot), especially if it's in need of a good cleaning. My Old type and Goodwill both have fine hairline cracks, and their performance is not affected in the least...but, it's still cracked. My single ring, however, is solid. I was quite lucky to get it at a decent price. A beautiful razor, and quite the shaver.
Gillette "NEW" with common bar handle ("long comb")
Gillette "single ring" ("short comb")
From what I've been able to gather, the reason for the comb was its effectiveness in shaving around heavy growth (the ample sideburns & mustaches of our forefathers), and less apt to clog. More blade is exposed, too, leading some to feel the open comb razor to be more aggressive than the solid safety bar razor. I tend to agree. Other folks swear by them, though.
Gillette "Goodwill"
Gillette continued producing open comb razors when it introduced the first "twist to open" (TTO) razor, the Aristocrat, in 1934. This, along with the Sheraton and Senator (as well as several British models), continued until the advent of the Regent and its solid bar around 1940.
1937 Sheraton
GEM Micromatic open comb
GEM Damaskeene open comb
Note: The early Gillette open comb razors were susceptible to cracks forming in the handles at the base and near the neck, as they were hollow tubes with the base and neck fittings pressed into them.
Saturday, June 3, 2017
Schick Krona: All but forgotten
Gillette, it seems, has ruled the twist-to-open double-edge razor scene since its introduction in 1934 with the one-piece, open comb Aristocrat. But there was one that, performance-wise, gave King Camp's razor a real run for the money. It wasn't all pretty gold-plated (although there *is* a gold-plated version), nor did it have fancy knurling on the handle. In fact, it was rather plain and unassuming...
It is one helluva razor.
The blades that came with mine were early production "Plus-Platinum", marked "18" over "K", which is just as big of a mystery as the razor's markings. I seriously doubt they have anything to do with the date of manufacture, as I had ordered some later-production blades marked "17" over "R". These are *great* blades; smooth, sharp, Teflon-coated masterpieces. In fact, I have a package of three more 5-packs in my hand I just took out of my mailbox...
The top dispenser is what I received with my razor. According to my source, it's dated late '60's - early '70's. The font used on the blades changed in 1971, and in 1976, the phrase "with exclusive TEFLON coating" was first used. The bottom pack is the latest production, having dropped the "TEFLON" and added "Fits all Double Edge Razors". They are still the (reportedly) same great blade.
Another blade worth trying are the Super Chromiums...
...not quite on the same level as the Plus-Plats, but still worth keeping a few on hand. (Yet another version, the "Krona-Chrome", is available, but I've not tried it...yet.) I had my best shave ever last night with my '50 Gillette Super Speed and a Plus-Plat, so who knows? The Super might turn out to be the blade of choice for my '41 Ranger Tech. But I digress...
(Note: All of the NOS blades I've purchased had to be removed from the dispenser, separated (a pointy-blade X-acto knife works great), and cleaned with soapy water. Schick apparently used some type of preservative, a light oil perhaps, that turned to glue over time. Not a difficult task, but they would not slide out in the normal manner otherwise.)
The Krona is long, about 3/4" longer than a Super Speed, not quite 1/4" longer than a Slim adjustable. I thought having that long of a handle would be awkward (like the Super Adjustable 109), but on the contrary...it felt well-balanced and easy to use. Some folks say the handle is plastic, but from the feel of it, I'm inclined to agree that it's a resin-coated metal (brass, I'll wager). I didn't find it slippery in the least, although the TTO knob could be a bit grippier. It's not as readily available as a Gillette, and from what I've noticed, that's reflected in the prices of better condition razors. Still, one can be had for less than the price of a '40s Super Speed. An under-rated and under-appreciated razor worth keeping in your rotation.
First-generation Schick Krona
Nickel & Gold
There's not a whole lot of information about the Krona. Like Gillette, there are markings under the bottom plate. Mine is marked as such...
...a "1" over an "M" on the left, and another "1" over "5" on the right. It was thought that the "M" stood for the plant of manufacture (Milford, CT), but the true meaning is still unknown. I did find this plausible bit of information on one of the better-known shaving forums:
- ca. 1964-65: original design with short metal knob, two-ply center bar, labelled with code M-5 and "Made in U.S.A" plus either a "SCHICK" or a triangle logo, blank doors, approximate weight 55-g.
- ca. 1966: design revised with long metal knob, two-ply center bar, often labelled with code 6-M, "3-2" or "4-2", and "Made in U.S.A" plus either a "SCHICK" or a triangle logo, blank doors, approximate weight 50-g.
- ca. 1966: as above, but grey instead of black and branded EVERSHARP with eagle logo.
- ca. 1967-68: design revised for 1967 patents, plastic knob, one-ply center bar, often labelled with code 1-M, "PATENTS PENDING", doors stamped "Schick - Schick" or "Schick - Krona" or "Schick - (blank)", approximate weight 38-g.
- ca. 1968-76 or later: plastic knob, one-ply center bar, various codes, doors stamped "Schick - Schick" or "Schick - Krona" or "Schick - (blank)", approximate weight 38-g.
It is one helluva razor.
The blades that came with mine were early production "Plus-Platinum", marked "18" over "K", which is just as big of a mystery as the razor's markings. I seriously doubt they have anything to do with the date of manufacture, as I had ordered some later-production blades marked "17" over "R". These are *great* blades; smooth, sharp, Teflon-coated masterpieces. In fact, I have a package of three more 5-packs in my hand I just took out of my mailbox...
The top dispenser is what I received with my razor. According to my source, it's dated late '60's - early '70's. The font used on the blades changed in 1971, and in 1976, the phrase "with exclusive TEFLON coating" was first used. The bottom pack is the latest production, having dropped the "TEFLON" and added "Fits all Double Edge Razors". They are still the (reportedly) same great blade.
Another blade worth trying are the Super Chromiums...
...not quite on the same level as the Plus-Plats, but still worth keeping a few on hand. (Yet another version, the "Krona-Chrome", is available, but I've not tried it...yet.) I had my best shave ever last night with my '50 Gillette Super Speed and a Plus-Plat, so who knows? The Super might turn out to be the blade of choice for my '41 Ranger Tech. But I digress...
(Note: All of the NOS blades I've purchased had to be removed from the dispenser, separated (a pointy-blade X-acto knife works great), and cleaned with soapy water. Schick apparently used some type of preservative, a light oil perhaps, that turned to glue over time. Not a difficult task, but they would not slide out in the normal manner otherwise.)
The Krona is long, about 3/4" longer than a Super Speed, not quite 1/4" longer than a Slim adjustable. I thought having that long of a handle would be awkward (like the Super Adjustable 109), but on the contrary...it felt well-balanced and easy to use. Some folks say the handle is plastic, but from the feel of it, I'm inclined to agree that it's a resin-coated metal (brass, I'll wager). I didn't find it slippery in the least, although the TTO knob could be a bit grippier. It's not as readily available as a Gillette, and from what I've noticed, that's reflected in the prices of better condition razors. Still, one can be had for less than the price of a '40s Super Speed. An under-rated and under-appreciated razor worth keeping in your rotation.
Saturday, March 4, 2017
Star, Gem, and Ever-Ready single-edge razors
These
are probably the most popular (as well as the most widely available) of
the vintage single-edge razors found on the market today. There are
others, such as the Valet Auto-Strop and Enders, but they use a
proprietary blade that may be difficult to find. The much older
single-edge razors, too, use what are known as wedge blades (basically a
piece of straight razor cut down to fit). For regular guys who want to
use what they get, it's best to stick with those razors that use blades
which are still available at the corner pharmacy. Now, for a little
backstory...
The first safety razor was patented by the Kampfe Brothers way back in 1875, and soon they began producing (and improving upon) the Star Safety Razor. One of their long-time employees, Jerry Reichard, left them and formed the Gem Cutlery Company in 1898. His Gem Safety Razor was designed after the Star, and soon he was both out-producing and out-selling them. Several year later, Jerry leaves to form yet another company that later becomes Ever-Ready in 1905. And soon afterwards, Gem & Ever-Ready merge to become the Personna American Safety Razor Company in 1906. Up to this point, the aforementioned wedge blade had been used; ASR soon developed the now-known single-edge blade with the ribbed back. (Ever-Ready also produced shaving brushes.) And, finally in 1909, Gem/Ever-Ready merge with Star to become the American Safety Razor Corporation. Thus, the similarity in appearance of these razors.
The "flip-top" razor, so called because the cap "flips up" when a tab on the rear of the cap is pushed down, can be found in a multitude of variations. The Damaskeene (open comb, 1912; closed comb, 1915; "Gem Cutlery Co." on back to 1919, then changed to "Gem Safety Razor Corp."; last produced 1921 when "Damaskeene" was removed from the blade tray) is touted to be one of the (if not the) finest shaving instruments ever made. After 1921, this razor was commonly known as the "1912". A less refined model, the "Junior" came out in 1933. And although they may look alike, there are subtle differences in head design and geometry, as well as handle shapes and designs.
...a heavy, well-balanced, yet mild razor, with a really cool retro look. The same head appears to be used in a much-lighter (and aptly named) '50s "Featherweight"...
Although Gem no longer makes razors, they still produces excellent blades under the Gem/Personna name. Note: Not all single-edge blades are the same. Don't try shaving with "window-scraper" blades from the hardware store. Your face will thank you for that.
The first safety razor was patented by the Kampfe Brothers way back in 1875, and soon they began producing (and improving upon) the Star Safety Razor. One of their long-time employees, Jerry Reichard, left them and formed the Gem Cutlery Company in 1898. His Gem Safety Razor was designed after the Star, and soon he was both out-producing and out-selling them. Several year later, Jerry leaves to form yet another company that later becomes Ever-Ready in 1905. And soon afterwards, Gem & Ever-Ready merge to become the Personna American Safety Razor Company in 1906. Up to this point, the aforementioned wedge blade had been used; ASR soon developed the now-known single-edge blade with the ribbed back. (Ever-Ready also produced shaving brushes.) And, finally in 1909, Gem/Ever-Ready merge with Star to become the American Safety Razor Corporation. Thus, the similarity in appearance of these razors.
The "flip-top" razor, so called because the cap "flips up" when a tab on the rear of the cap is pushed down, can be found in a multitude of variations. The Damaskeene (open comb, 1912; closed comb, 1915; "Gem Cutlery Co." on back to 1919, then changed to "Gem Safety Razor Corp."; last produced 1921 when "Damaskeene" was removed from the blade tray) is touted to be one of the (if not the) finest shaving instruments ever made. After 1921, this razor was commonly known as the "1912". A less refined model, the "Junior" came out in 1933. And although they may look alike, there are subtle differences in head design and geometry, as well as handle shapes and designs.
Gem "Damaskeene"
Gem "1912"
Gem "Junior"
Ever-Ready "1914"
Star "1912"
Gem "1912" (travel set?)
Gem "1912", curved cap with no logo on back plate
Gem "1912" with "art deco" handle
The Ever-Ready "1924" model redesigned the head/handle attachment to produced the "Shovelhead"...
...and
also hinged the cap in front of the blade tray instead of the rear, as
in earlier models. And in 1932, Gem introduced (also in several
variations) their first twist-to-open razor, the Micro-Matic...
...here, pictured with their unique "push-button" model from the 1950's.
Another variation of the Micro-Matic, with a "bullet"-shaped TTO knob...
When
the Ever-Ready trademark disappeared in the '30s, Gem came out with
another very popular razor, the Heavy Flat-top, also known as the
"G-Bar"...
...a heavy, well-balanced, yet mild razor, with a really cool retro look. The same head appears to be used in a much-lighter (and aptly named) '50s "Featherweight"...
Finishing out the Gem line were the '60s Contour and '70s Contour II...
Gem Contour
Gem Contour II
Although Gem no longer makes razors, they still produces excellent blades under the Gem/Personna name. Note: Not all single-edge blades are the same. Don't try shaving with "window-scraper" blades from the hardware store. Your face will thank you for that.
Saturday, February 25, 2017
Is the "Milord" just a blinged-out Super Speed?
Well, yeah, but they still rock.
I just received a near-mint '48/49 Milord in the mail. It had a few light green spots on the handle that the seller thought were due to it stored being in the case for a long time. Could be, I don't know, but I bought it anyway.
First thing I do with any razor I buy is give it a good soaking in a bowl of hot water and Dawn dishwashing liquid, then scrub it down with an old toothbrush. It didn't take much effort to totally remove all traces of green, and I soon had it looking like a brand new razor. Very faint marks (I wouldn't even describe them as scratches) on the doors, no dings in the knurling, opens & closes flawlessly. Very slight sign of wear on the case, and the lining was very clean. I would almost venture to say...unused. But, I digress...
The first Milord was introduced in 1940 (or 1941, depending on the source of info) as the "Gillette One-piece Tech Razor, Milord Model". (Note: Gillette also had a shortened handle "Milady" women's razor that same year.)
The nickel-plated Ranger Tech was brought out the next year; both razors are otherwise identical. World War II interrupted civilian production until 1946, when the Ranger Tech returned (with the addition of end caps covering the door links). As before, the gold-plated Milord was offered, being a fancy version of its nickel-plated brother.
1947 saw the first Super Speeds, and of course, a gold-plated Milord was offered. The changes from year to year were the same as the nickel models (i.e. creased base plate in '47, notched center bar in '48, "Package" inside base plate changed to "PKG" in 1950, and date codes introduced in '51). The only other difference was the case: Milords came in a fancy clamshell while the Super Speeds were stuck in plastic blue or red bottom/clear top cases.The last Milord was the 1953 model.
So, making a short story long, yes. A Milord is a Super Speed in a fancy dinner jacket.
I just received a near-mint '48/49 Milord in the mail. It had a few light green spots on the handle that the seller thought were due to it stored being in the case for a long time. Could be, I don't know, but I bought it anyway.
First thing I do with any razor I buy is give it a good soaking in a bowl of hot water and Dawn dishwashing liquid, then scrub it down with an old toothbrush. It didn't take much effort to totally remove all traces of green, and I soon had it looking like a brand new razor. Very faint marks (I wouldn't even describe them as scratches) on the doors, no dings in the knurling, opens & closes flawlessly. Very slight sign of wear on the case, and the lining was very clean. I would almost venture to say...unused. But, I digress...
The first Milord was introduced in 1940 (or 1941, depending on the source of info) as the "Gillette One-piece Tech Razor, Milord Model". (Note: Gillette also had a shortened handle "Milady" women's razor that same year.)
1940 (or is it '41?) Milord
1947 saw the first Super Speeds, and of course, a gold-plated Milord was offered. The changes from year to year were the same as the nickel models (i.e. creased base plate in '47, notched center bar in '48, "Package" inside base plate changed to "PKG" in 1950, and date codes introduced in '51). The only other difference was the case: Milords came in a fancy clamshell while the Super Speeds were stuck in plastic blue or red bottom/clear top cases.The last Milord was the 1953 model.
So, making a short story long, yes. A Milord is a Super Speed in a fancy dinner jacket.
Sunday, February 19, 2017
Injectors. Gotta love 'em.
The injector razor, so named after the method of loading the blade, was the brain-child of Jacob Schick, a grunt who served during the turn of the century (not this last one...the one before). Blades are stored inside a (then brass, and later aluminum) case, fitted with a "key" which was stuck into a slot in the razor. A loading tab was pulled back, then slid forward, forcing the bade into the razor's head. Schick supposedly got the idea from the way rifles were charged. Nifty, huh? These razors and associated injectors were marketed and sold through Schick's Magazine Repeating Razor Company, founded on 1926. Col. Schick sold this company in order to raise capital for some stupid electric razor nonsense. But I digress...
There are several manufacturers who made injector razors, but Schick is probably the best known. The first Schick to use the injector method was the "D" Type (1935), which was opened in an odd scissor-fashion for cleaning...
(Note: The "Type" designation is not a company-created idea, but was created by a third-party to facilitate identification.)
Next, from 1935-1945, came the "E" Type. Now, here's where it starts getting a bit confusing. There are different spring designs: flat with outward-facing tabs; round with inward facing tabs (these springs could be swiveled to the left in order to open the head for cleaning); fixed spring with non-opening head; the irregular striations on the guard bar were replaced with parallel lines; and the head was either textured or smooth gold-plated. Handles were of molded Bakelite, with no seam. The round rivet was marked "Schick Injector", and inside of head had a single patent number and "Others Pending".
These were produced 1946-1955, and can be easily identified by the two patent numbers stamped inside the head. The "G" Type, as these are known, are somewhat milder than their predecessor, but this is another one of those "YMMV" things.
1955 saw the first major change in 20 years with the "I" Type. The "I2" Type was known as the "Hydro-Magic", and was fitted with a lever which loosened the head for ease in cleaning.
The following years, up to 1980, saw little change with the exception of the handle becoming longer and slimmer...here's an "L" Type...
...although the code inside the head is stamped "M45"...
In 1980, Schick (oops, I mean Warner Lambert, since Eversharp sold the rights to them in 1969), came out with the "N" Type with a redesigned "T"-shaped head...
...and the final model, the "O" Type, was produced for foreign markets, most notably Japan (where Schick injectors enjoy a strong following)...
So much for Schicks.Gillette also produced an injector razor...
...and another for twin blades...
There are several manufacturers who made injector razors, but Schick is probably the best known. The first Schick to use the injector method was the "D" Type (1935), which was opened in an odd scissor-fashion for cleaning...
(Note: The "Type" designation is not a company-created idea, but was created by a third-party to facilitate identification.)
Next, from 1935-1945, came the "E" Type. Now, here's where it starts getting a bit confusing. There are different spring designs: flat with outward-facing tabs; round with inward facing tabs (these springs could be swiveled to the left in order to open the head for cleaning); fixed spring with non-opening head; the irregular striations on the guard bar were replaced with parallel lines; and the head was either textured or smooth gold-plated. Handles were of molded Bakelite, with no seam. The round rivet was marked "Schick Injector", and inside of head had a single patent number and "Others Pending".
Schick "E2" head
From 1940-1941, The "F" Type was produced, having an alloy handle which also formed the guard bar, and an integral cap and spring...
Eversharp bought the rights to the Schick injector in 1946; while the head remained the same (with the exception of some razors having "Eversharp" replacing "Schick" on the rivet), the handle was changed to molded plastic of various colors and an obvious lengthwise seam.
1947-53 saw the "Fashion Razor" ("H" Type) for the ladies, basically a small plastic box the took the injector razor...
The following years, up to 1980, saw little change with the exception of the handle becoming longer and slimmer...here's an "L" Type...
The "M" Type was the adjustable model...
Don't let the "Trac II" name confuse you with the "Trac II" cartridge razor. Different beast altogether.
PAL produced both a fixed and adjustable injector, as did Personna (fixed only). There are also newer injector razors on the market, but as they aren't vintage, they have no business here.
Injectors are just as capable of performing as well as double-edge razors, and the new Chinese-made Schick blades (known as "Chicks") are smooth, sharp, and comfortable. Single-edge blades can easily be found online, but the twin-edge are both scarce and expensive. I was fortunate enough to score a NOS, unopened box of Personna Twins off that auction site (as well as a good supply of Williams pucks)...
Note: All single-edge injector blades will fit any of these vintage razors. The twin blades, however, will ONLY work in razors made AFTER 1961, and NOT in the PAL adjustable razors or those razors fitted with a rinsing lever. There is a very real chance the blade will get stuck due to its being thicker than the single blade. Now, I tried one in my Schick E2, since the head will open, and it seemed to fit. I haven't tried it, though. So, there is my disclaimer. Proceed at your own risk.
Edit: I have since tried a twin blade in my E2, and it performed marvelously. I removed the blade after use to reduce any chance the (slightly) thicker twin could deform the head. I inserted the dummy blade, and found no ill effects. Second shave with the twin was equally great. E2 only, boys & girls, since the head can be opened to insert the blade by hand. I did not attempt to use the injector.
(Note: There were earlier injector razors; these had a mechanism built into the razor itself to load the blade, instead of using a separate injector. These were the Type A, B, and C repeating razors.)
Edit: I have since tried a twin blade in my E2, and it performed marvelously. I removed the blade after use to reduce any chance the (slightly) thicker twin could deform the head. I inserted the dummy blade, and found no ill effects. Second shave with the twin was equally great. E2 only, boys & girls, since the head can be opened to insert the blade by hand. I did not attempt to use the injector.
(Note: There were earlier injector razors; these had a mechanism built into the razor itself to load the blade, instead of using a separate injector. These were the Type A, B, and C repeating razors.)
Type A
Type B
Type C
The head would swivel parallel with the handle, and loaded by pulling the opposite end, then pushing a new blade into the head. The head is then swiveled perpendicular to the handle, ready to shave. I've read that there are no nubs ("stops") in the razor's head, like later injectors, and some re-positioning of the blade might have to be done with a toothpick in order to get it in the proper position. Still, worthy of note and would be an interesting addition to any collection.)
Sunday, January 15, 2017
What to do with 'em when you get 'em
Use 'em. Simple.
Before I caught RAD, all I had was a '65 Slim adjustable. The only blades I used were either no-names or those horrid Van der Hagen "Ice Tempered" face-scrapers from Germany. I didn't wise up until I started lurking about that "auction site" and discovered about a million different blades. And believe me, there is a difference.
This is probably the best way to get a really good selection of blades. Start off with maybe a sample pack, and find the blades that work best for you. Another way to begin with is to read reviews of folks who have used these blades (and know what they're talking about). But remember the "YMMV" factor, and that some blades work better in some razors than others. Another factor is that there are occasional "duds", a bad blade now & then, due to a manufacturing error or defect in material. It happens. I think I've run across one in an otherwise great brand of blade. If you get a dud, don't be too quick to judge the whole lot.
But how do you know a good blade? Different razors perform differently with different blades. So...experiment. After a little more than a year, I've found a good combination wit the humble (and mild) post-war ball-end Tech and a Teflon-coated Voskhod blade. I've gotten a few vintage blades with some of the razors I've acquired, and tried them out of curiosity. They are now no more than historical artifacts.
Shaving forums are a great place to find razor reviews. Everything from straight razors and wedges, guys who've been doing it for years or only days, vintage razors to the latest & greatest Kickstarter product, soaps, brushes, pre-shave & post-shave oils & balms...it's all there. Great place to get loads of useful information. Also, a great place to BST (buy, sell, trade), get in a group buy, or participate in a PIF (pay it forward).
Set up a routine, a ritual if you will. Some guys (and gals) shave before they shower, some after. Some use hot water, others are cold water shavers. Some use a pre-shave oil, some don't. I've tried it all, and what works for me is to fill the lavatory with hot water (I run the ventilation fan so the mirror won't fog up), soak my brush, load up my razor, wet my face for like a half-minute, then lather up my brush (with a puck of good ol' Williams) in an Old Spice mug. I start below the sideburns, alternating sides with each series of short, over-lapping strokes, and work my way toward the chin. I usually have to "buff" my chin (shorter over-lapping strokes), then re-lather my neck and go down, with the grain (WTG), then up, against the grain (ATG). I sometimes over-do my throat because of the sideways growth of my whiskers, and, depending on the razor/blade combo (and my own persistence), irritate the skin (and sometimes draw blood). After a cold water rinse, I shower, then use Nivea Sensitive Cooling post-shave balm. Last night's shave ('46 Ranger Tech/'48 hybrid with a Polsilver Super Iridium) was the closest shave I've gotten with no red stuff leaking out (a bit of irritation, but no visible redness). What I use to do in like three minutes now takes 20-25 minutes.
Before I caught RAD, all I had was a '65 Slim adjustable. The only blades I used were either no-names or those horrid Van der Hagen "Ice Tempered" face-scrapers from Germany. I didn't wise up until I started lurking about that "auction site" and discovered about a million different blades. And believe me, there is a difference.
This is probably the best way to get a really good selection of blades. Start off with maybe a sample pack, and find the blades that work best for you. Another way to begin with is to read reviews of folks who have used these blades (and know what they're talking about). But remember the "YMMV" factor, and that some blades work better in some razors than others. Another factor is that there are occasional "duds", a bad blade now & then, due to a manufacturing error or defect in material. It happens. I think I've run across one in an otherwise great brand of blade. If you get a dud, don't be too quick to judge the whole lot.
But how do you know a good blade? Different razors perform differently with different blades. So...experiment. After a little more than a year, I've found a good combination wit the humble (and mild) post-war ball-end Tech and a Teflon-coated Voskhod blade. I've gotten a few vintage blades with some of the razors I've acquired, and tried them out of curiosity. They are now no more than historical artifacts.
Shaving forums are a great place to find razor reviews. Everything from straight razors and wedges, guys who've been doing it for years or only days, vintage razors to the latest & greatest Kickstarter product, soaps, brushes, pre-shave & post-shave oils & balms...it's all there. Great place to get loads of useful information. Also, a great place to BST (buy, sell, trade), get in a group buy, or participate in a PIF (pay it forward).
Set up a routine, a ritual if you will. Some guys (and gals) shave before they shower, some after. Some use hot water, others are cold water shavers. Some use a pre-shave oil, some don't. I've tried it all, and what works for me is to fill the lavatory with hot water (I run the ventilation fan so the mirror won't fog up), soak my brush, load up my razor, wet my face for like a half-minute, then lather up my brush (with a puck of good ol' Williams) in an Old Spice mug. I start below the sideburns, alternating sides with each series of short, over-lapping strokes, and work my way toward the chin. I usually have to "buff" my chin (shorter over-lapping strokes), then re-lather my neck and go down, with the grain (WTG), then up, against the grain (ATG). I sometimes over-do my throat because of the sideways growth of my whiskers, and, depending on the razor/blade combo (and my own persistence), irritate the skin (and sometimes draw blood). After a cold water rinse, I shower, then use Nivea Sensitive Cooling post-shave balm. Last night's shave ('46 Ranger Tech/'48 hybrid with a Polsilver Super Iridium) was the closest shave I've gotten with no red stuff leaking out (a bit of irritation, but no visible redness). What I use to do in like three minutes now takes 20-25 minutes.
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