Saturday, March 4, 2017

Star, Gem, and Ever-Ready single-edge razors

These are probably the most popular (as well as the most widely available) of the vintage single-edge razors found on the market today. There are others, such as the Valet Auto-Strop and Enders, but they use a proprietary blade that may be difficult to find. The much older single-edge razors, too, use what are known as wedge blades (basically a piece of straight razor cut down to fit). For regular guys who want to use what they get, it's best to stick with those razors that use blades which are still available at the corner pharmacy. Now, for a little backstory...

The first safety razor was patented by the Kampfe Brothers way back in 1875, and soon they began producing (and improving upon) the Star Safety Razor. One of their long-time employees, Jerry Reichard, left them and formed the Gem Cutlery Company in 1898. His Gem Safety Razor was designed after the Star, and soon he was both out-producing and out-selling them. Several year later, Jerry leaves to form yet another company that later becomes Ever-Ready in 1905. And soon afterwards, Gem & Ever-Ready merge to become the Personna American Safety Razor Company in 1906. Up to this point, the aforementioned wedge blade had been used; ASR soon developed the now-known single-edge blade with the ribbed back. (Ever-Ready also produced shaving brushes.) And, finally in 1909, Gem/Ever-Ready merge with Star to become the American Safety Razor Corporation. Thus, the similarity in appearance of these razors.


The "flip-top" razor, so called because the cap "flips up" when a tab on the rear of the cap is pushed down, can be found in a multitude of variations. The Damaskeene (open comb, 1912; closed comb, 1915; "Gem Cutlery Co." on back to 1919, then changed to "Gem Safety Razor Corp."; last produced 1921 when "Damaskeene" was removed from the blade tray) is touted to be one of the (if not the) finest shaving instruments ever made. After 1921, this razor was commonly known as the "1912". A less refined model, the "Junior" came out in 1933. And although they may look alike, there are subtle differences in head design and geometry, as well as handle shapes and designs.

Gem "Damaskeene"

Gem "1912"

Gem "Junior"

Ever-Ready "1914"

Star "1912"

Gem "1912" (travel set?)

Gem "1912", curved cap with no logo on back plate

 Gem "1912" with "art deco" handle

The Ever-Ready "1924" model redesigned the head/handle attachment to produced the "Shovelhead"...


 ...and also hinged the cap in front of the blade tray instead of the rear, as in earlier models. And in 1932, Gem introduced (also in several variations) their first twist-to-open razor, the Micro-Matic...

 

...here, pictured with their unique "push-button" model from the 1950's.

Another variation of the Micro-Matic, with a "bullet"-shaped TTO knob...


 When the Ever-Ready trademark disappeared in the '30s, Gem came out with another very popular razor, the Heavy Flat-top, also known as the "G-Bar"...


 ...a heavy, well-balanced, yet mild razor, with a really cool retro look. The same head appears to be used in a much-lighter (and aptly named) '50s "Featherweight"...


 Finishing out the Gem line were the '60s Contour and '70s Contour II...

 Gem Contour

 
Gem Contour II

Although Gem no longer makes razors, they still produces excellent blades under the Gem/Personna name. Note: Not all single-edge blades are the same. Don't try shaving with "window-scraper" blades from the hardware store. Your face will thank you for that.