Finding the "Best"

I initially began collecting these old razors to have something to pass on to one of my grandsons. It soon turned into a search for my personal "best"...best razor, best blade, best brush, best soap. I think I can honestly say I've found them.

Soap. Call me an anachronistic old fool, but I like Williams. They've been around since 1840, so they've got to be doing something right. It's not the same formula now as it was then, but I like it. Liked it so much I bought a case.  

Now, what do I use to lather up this fine puck of heavenly goodness? Lots of folks swear by the almighty badger, but I found my brush of choice to be a humble, vintage boar. Specifically, a Strong Set pure boar.

I stumbled upon the brush and equally vintage Old Spice (second model) mug in an antique shop in South Carolina. Paid a little more than I really wanted to, but turns out they were worth the money. I kept one of my badgers, an Ever-ready, that runs a close second. I'll use it for a back-up.

Blades are a highly personal part of shaving; there are great blades, good blades, bad blades, and horrible blades. After more than two years, +/- 90 razors, and 50 or so different blades, my go-to is the Teflon-coated Voskhod from Russia.

These work in every razor I own, better in some than others, and always give me a close, irritation-free shave.

Finally...the razor of choice...at first, it was the humble post-war ball-end Tech. Simple in design, mild, bomb-proof.

This was one of my first razors, and it always did me right. My only real issue was having to take it apart to insert/remove the blade, and to clean it. The solution? The 1941 Ranger Tech.

A truly wonderful razor. Mild like the Tech, but with the convenience of twist-to-open ease of blade changing and cleaning. The only other razor that comes close is my last purchase...

...a 1937 Sheraton. I wasn't too sure about the open comb, but I've been using it almost exclusively for the past few weeks, and found it to be the equal of the Ranger (with the added cool factor of the teeth). These two will accompany me on my adventures when I retire next year.

Finding your personal "best" will take some doing. Time and patience (and a little money), and working on technique, are essential. Knowledge of what you're looking for is just as important. Closely examine what you've found, then dig a little deeper, and you'll find some good deals. You'll also find that "best" combination that will last the rest of your life. 

< rant > That "auction site"

There are simple mistakes in sellers' listings that can be to your benefit (or detriment, if you're not wise to them), such as the last Super Speed I bought that the seller didn't list as a V3 (although it was plainly evident in the photos). Or the "rare '46 Super Speed!" that was in fact a hybrid (a '46 Ranger Tech head on a SS handle). Or the "no notch, no date code" SS that was in fact a '41 Ranger Tech. On the other hand, I've been fooled by the image itself, like the L3 Slim I thought was an Aristocrat (the lighting made it look gold; the auction was ending soon so I bit the bullet...good thing I didn't pay an Aristocrat's price for it).

But what I've been seeing lately is just plain stupid. Like the cased Aristocrat (marked on the inside of the lid as such) listed as a Fat Boy. Uh, the included directions say "Aristocrat Model" plain as day, dude! Even some Heavy Techs are being listed as Fat Boys. Stop it already! And a post-war ball-end Tech listed as 1931 because of the B4 date code (uh, the *blade* would have been 1931; razors began standard date codes in 1951, so the B4 would be *1956*). The black-handled Super Speed is not only *not adjustable* it did *not* come in the TV Special case.

Sellers: If you have no idea what you have, spend five minutes on the internet and *find out*. If you feel like you don't have time, you shouldn't be selling. You're making yourself not only look stupid, you could be selling something that's worth a lot more than what you're getting. If you *do* know what you have, but think you're relying on the buyer being stupid, then you're just being a cheat. You can keep your blue-tip (that never came in an "ostrich" skin case). $249? 

*smfh* </ rant >

Define "Best"

I just picked up (but haven't received yet) an old German open-comb four-piece travel razor. It looked interesting (it was listed as a "Gillette Tuckaway", which I knew it wasn't), and I had a $5 off coupon. It was grungy, but all the teeth were straight, and was in a nickel case. Looked like a good candidate for a revamp. Had a maker's mark of "P" over "F" (or vice-versa), and "Made in Germany" stamped on it. So, I started doing a little research on just what this thing could be. (So far, I've found nothing at this point.)

During my research, I stumbled across numerous websites touting "the best (insert random number here) razors for beginners" and such. I took time to read through some, knowing full well that "best" is totally subjective. Some of the information just misleading, some was flat wrong, some read like ads. And most are concerned only with new production razors, not vintage. But I'm not here to judge individuals or their sites. I'm here to tell you to find what "best" means to *you*, as a collector (and user) of vintage razors.

So...you've spent some time (and a lot of money) building a collection of vintage razors. You've also acquired many different blades, some brushes, and soaps/creams. Now is the time to put them to use and find out what to put on display or, in my case, pass on to a child (and/or grandchild). After nearly two years of collecting, I'm *still* in that testing phase, but have found a few that are definitely keepers (until I croak and my son gets them). There were some that I knew right away they would go away, and some that will stay. There were some that I wanted so bad to work for me, but didn't. So, they left. Like my E2 Schick injector. It's a tad aggressive, and doesn't give me as close and comfortable shave as the Schick adjustable with a twin blade. And all of my Milords...beautiful, near mint, they just don't perform to my satisfaction. My '41 Ranger Tech? It'll have to be pried from my cold, dead hand. The last V3 Super Speed I got is still trying out different blades, and I'm hoping it'll be a keeper. I'll hang on to the toggle just 'cuz it's a toggle. Out of the nearly 80 razors I've acquired, I'm down to 13, but I'll be culling out a few more before my next trip south.

I'm really hoping this old German razor will find a place in my rack.

Razors with teeth

When I first saw an open comb razor, it intimidated me. "No way I'll use one of those," I told myself. I pictured my face being shredded into a bloody mess.

Gillette "NEW" with common bar handle ("long comb")

Gillette "single ring" ("short comb")

From what I've been able to gather, the reason for the comb was its effectiveness in shaving around heavy growth (the ample sideburns & mustaches of our forefathers), and less apt to clog. More blade is exposed, too, leading some to feel the open comb razor to be more aggressive than the solid safety bar razor. I tend to agree. Other folks swear by them, though. 

Gillette "Goodwill"

Gillette continued producing open comb razors when it introduced the first "twist to open" (TTO) razor, the Aristocrat, in 1934. This, along with the Sheraton and Senator (as well as several British models), continued until the advent of the Regent and its solid bar around 1940.

1937 Sheraton

GEM Micromatic open comb

GEM Damaskeene open comb

Note: The early Gillette open comb razors were susceptible to cracks forming in the handles at the base and near the neck, as they were hollow tubes with the base and neck fittings pressed into them.

Careful observation is needed when buying these old razors online, as some of these cracks are so slight as to be barely perceptible (watch for statements like "No cracks that I can see!") and will not show up well when photographed (also be careful if you see that only one side is being shot), especially if it's in need of a good cleaning. My Old type and Goodwill both have fine hairline cracks, and their performance is not affected in the least...but, it's still cracked. My single ring, however, is solid. I was quite lucky to get it at a decent price. A beautiful razor, and quite the shaver. 

Schick Krona: All but forgotten

Gillette, it seems, has ruled the twist-to-open double-edge razor scene since its introduction in 1934 with the one-piece, open comb Aristocrat. But there was one that, performance-wise, gave King Camp's razor a real run for the money. It wasn't all pretty gold-plated (although there *is* a gold-plated version), nor did it have fancy knurling on the handle. In fact, it was rather plain and unassuming...

 First-generation Schick Krona

Nickel & Gold

There's not a whole lot of information about the Krona. Like Gillette, there are markings under the bottom plate. Mine is marked as such...

...a "1" over an "M" on the left, and another "1" over "5" on the right. It was thought that the "M" stood for the plant of manufacture (Milford, CT), but the true meaning is still unknown. I did find this plausible bit of information on one of the better-known shaving forums:

• ca. 1964-65: original design with short metal knob, two-ply center bar, labelled with code M-5 and "Made in U.S.A" plus either a "SCHICK" or a triangle logo, blank doors, approximate weight 55-g.
• ca. 1966: design revised with long metal knob, two-ply center bar, often labelled with code 6-M, "3-2" or "4-2", and "Made in U.S.A" plus either a "SCHICK" or a triangle logo, blank doors, approximate weight 50-g.
• ca. 1966: as above, but grey instead of black and branded EVERSHARP with eagle logo.
• ca. 1967-68: design revised for 1967 patents, plastic knob, one-ply center bar, often labelled with code 1-M, "PATENTS PENDING", doors stamped "Schick - Schick" or "Schick - Krona" or "Schick - (blank)", approximate weight 38-g.
• ca. 1968-76 or later: plastic knob, one-ply center bar, various codes, doors stamped "Schick - Schick" or "Schick - Krona" or "Schick - (blank)", approximate weight 38-g.

Of course, this is not a definitive explanation, but it *is* one of the few sources of information on the Krona I've been able to find. The only 100% accurate, can't be denied, set in stone *fact* about the Krona is this:

It is one helluva razor. 

The blades that came with mine were early production "Plus-Platinum", marked "18" over "K", which is just as big of a mystery as the razor's markings. I seriously doubt they have anything to do with the date of manufacture, as I had ordered some later-production blades marked "17" over "R". These are *great* blades; smooth, sharp, Teflon-coated masterpieces. In fact, I have a package of three more 5-packs in my hand I just took out of my mailbox...

The top dispenser is what I received with my razor. According to my source, it's dated late '60's - early '70's. The font used on the blades changed in 1971, and in 1976, the phrase "with exclusive TEFLON coating" was first used. The bottom pack is the latest production, having dropped the "TEFLON" and added "Fits all Double Edge Razors". They are still the (reportedly) same great blade.

Another blade worth trying are the Super Chromiums...

...not quite on the same level as the Plus-Plats, but still worth keeping a few on hand. (Yet another version, the "Krona-Chrome", is available, but I've not tried it...yet.) I had my best shave ever last night with my '50 Gillette Super Speed and a Plus-Plat, so who knows? The Super might turn out to be the blade of choice for my '41 Ranger Tech. But I digress...

(Note: All of the NOS blades I've purchased had to be removed from the dispenser, separated (a pointy-blade X-acto knife works great), and cleaned with soapy water. Schick apparently used some type of preservative, a light oil perhaps, that turned to glue over time. Not a difficult task, but they would not slide out in the normal manner otherwise.)

The Krona is long, about 3/4" longer than a Super Speed, not quite 1/4" longer than a Slim adjustable. I thought having that long of a handle would be awkward (like the Super Adjustable 109), but on the contrary...it felt well-balanced and easy to use. Some folks say the handle is plastic, but from the feel of it, I'm inclined to agree that it's a resin-coated metal (brass, I'll wager). I didn't find it slippery in the least, although the TTO knob could be a bit grippier. It's not as readily available as a Gillette, and from what I've noticed, that's reflected in the prices of better condition razors. Still, one can be had for less than the price of a '40s Super Speed. An under-rated and under-appreciated razor worth keeping in your rotation.  

Star, Gem, and Ever-Ready single-edge razors

These are probably the most popular (as well as the most widely available) of the vintage single-edge razors found on the market today. There are others, such as the Valet Auto-Strop and Enders, but they use a proprietary blade that may be difficult to find. The much older single-edge razors, too, use what are known as wedge blades (basically a piece of straight razor cut down to fit). For regular guys who want to use what they get, it's best to stick with those razors that use blades which are still available at the corner pharmacy. Now, for a little backstory...

The first safety razor was patented by the Kampfe Brothers way back in 1875, and soon they began producing (and improving upon) the Star Safety Razor. One of their long-time employees, Jerry Reichard, left them and formed the Gem Cutlery Company in 1898. His Gem Safety Razor was designed after the Star, and soon he was both out-producing and out-selling them. Several year later, Jerry leaves to form yet another company that later becomes Ever-Ready in 1905. And soon afterwards, Gem & Ever-Ready merge to become the Personna American Safety Razor Company in 1906. Up to this point, the aforementioned wedge blade had been used; ASR soon developed the now-known single-edge blade with the ribbed back. (Ever-Ready also produced shaving brushes.) And, finally in 1909, Gem/Ever-Ready merge with Star to become the American Safety Razor Corporation. Thus, the similarity in appearance of these razors.

The "flip-top" razor, so called because the cap "flips up" when a tab on the rear of the cap is pushed down, can be found in a multitude of variations. The Damaskeene (open comb, 1912; closed comb, 1915; "Gem Cutlery Co." on back to 1919, then changed to "Gem Safety Razor Corp."; last produced 1921 when "Damaskeene" was removed from the blade tray) is touted to be one of the (if not the) finest shaving instruments ever made. After 1921, this razor was commonly known as the "1912". A less refined model, the "Junior" came out in 1933. And although they may look alike, there are subtle differences in head design and geometry, as well as handle shapes and designs.

Gem "Damaskeene"

Gem "1912"

Gem "Junior"

Ever-Ready "1914"

Star "1912"

Gem "1912" (travel set?)

Gem "1912", curved cap with no logo on back plate

 Gem "1912" with "art deco" handle

The Ever-Ready "1924" model redesigned the head/handle attachment to produced the "Shovelhead"...

 ...and also hinged the cap in front of the blade tray instead of the rear, as in earlier models. And in 1932, Gem introduced (also in several variations) their first twist-to-open razor, the Micro-Matic...

 

...here, pictured with their unique "push-button" model from the 1950's.

Another variation of the Micro-Matic, with a "bullet"-shaped TTO knob...

 When the Ever-Ready trademark disappeared in the '30s, Gem came out with another very popular razor, the Heavy Flat-top, also known as the "G-Bar"...

 ...a heavy, well-balanced, yet mild razor, with a really cool retro look. The same head appears to be used in a much-lighter (and aptly named) '50s "Featherweight"...

 Finishing out the Gem line were the '60s Contour and '70s Contour II...

 Gem Contour

 

Gem Contour II

Although Gem no longer makes razors, they still produces excellent blades under the Gem/Personna name. Note: Not all single-edge blades are the same. Don't try shaving with "window-scraper" blades from the hardware store. Your face will thank you for that.

Is the "Milord" just a blinged-out Super Speed?

Well, yeah, but they still rock.

I just received a near-mint '48/49 Milord in the mail. It had a few light green spots on the handle that the seller thought were due to it stored being in the case for a long time. Could be, I don't know, but I bought it anyway.

First thing I do with any razor I buy is give it a good soaking in a bowl of hot water and Dawn dishwashing liquid, then scrub it down with an old toothbrush. It didn't take much effort to totally remove all traces of green, and I soon had it looking like a brand new razor. Very faint marks (I wouldn't even describe them as scratches) on the doors, no dings in the knurling, opens & closes flawlessly. Very slight sign of wear on the case, and the lining was very clean. I would almost venture to say...unused. But, I digress...

The first Milord was introduced in 1940 (or 1941, depending on the source of info) as the "Gillette One-piece Tech Razor, Milord Model". (Note: Gillette also had a shortened handle "Milady" women's razor that same year.) 

 1940 (or is it '41?) Milord

The nickel-plated Ranger Tech was brought out the next year; both razors are otherwise identical. World War II interrupted civilian production until 1946, when the Ranger Tech returned (with the addition of end caps covering the door links). As before, the gold-plated Milord was offered, being a fancy version of its nickel-plated brother.

1947 saw the first Super Speeds, and of course, a gold-plated Milord was offered. The changes from year to year were the same as the nickel models (i.e. creased base plate in '47, notched center bar in '48, "Package" inside base plate changed to "PKG" in 1950, and date codes introduced in '51). The only other difference was the case: Milords came in a fancy clamshell while the Super Speeds were stuck in plastic blue or red bottom/clear top cases.The last Milord was the 1953 model.

So, making a short story long, yes. A Milord is a Super Speed in a fancy dinner jacket.