Sunday, December 4, 2016

Adjustable razors

Adjustable razors have the ability of adjusting the blade exposure ("gap") to give a varying degree of mildness and/or aggressiveness by turning a numbered dial, located on the handle below the razor's head, or, in the case of injector razors, on the head itself.

  PAL adjustable razor

 Schick adjustable razor

Gillette adjustable DE razors

The "Fatboy", officially called the "195" (because they cost $1.95 when they came out in 1958) is so named for its chunky "fat" handle, and had a slightly higher-domed head than other twist-to-open razors. Gold-plated versions were called "Executive" models. Production ended in 1961 and was replaced with the slimmer "Slim" adjustable later that year. The gold-plated "Slim" was called "Aristocrat" (not to be confused with the earlier non-adjustable models). The "Slim", in turned was replaced in 1968 by the black-handled "Super-84 Adjustable", which had a short (84mm) handle; the "Super-109" had a 109.5mm handle. The "Super" model also came in a gold-plated version (from what I could find, date code O4 only?). The brass base plate was replaced in 1977 with a black plastic one. Production ended in 1988.

Some of the rarer adjustable razors...the infamous and elusive Bottom-dial Fatboy...

(image courtesy mr-razor.com)

Another highly-sought razor is the Gillette "Toggle", so named for its unique method of opening the silo doors...

 1960 (F4) red-dot "Toggle"

Flipping the lever loosens the doors just enough to aid in rinsing during shaving. Flipping it to the full position opens the doors for blade insertion/removal. The "Toggle" had a limited production run in 1957-58, and full production for Christmas, 1960. They all had the same 9-position adjustment dial as the other Gillettes. Most were gold-plated; however, there were some nickel-plated versions as well. A rarer still variation of the "Toggle", the 5-position 1956, was serial numbered, as opposed to having a date code...

  Not an inexpensive razor (image: mr-razor.com)

I personally used a 1965 "Slim" for about 6 years (along with an assortment of various disposables and women's cartridge razors), set on "3" and using whatever blades I could get at HEB's. I had an old brush (with probably half the bristles missing) and a puck of whatever soap I could get (again, at HEB's) in a vintage Homer Laughlin coffee mug. When I stopped seeing shaving as a chore, and more as a way to unwind & relax, I started using a wider variety of blades. Adjustables have the advantage of being able to adapt to the blade that's loaded in it. Also, they can adjust to areas of the face that benefit from a more aggressive (or milder) setting. I use a fairly mild setting on the flat surfaces, such as my cheeks, then crank it up on the more difficult areas, such as my throat (my whiskers grow in a sideways direction; such is the importance of "mapping" your face).

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